empanadas, anyone?

Remembering Vigan and its food. Yes, definitely the food. When we visited last September, I was told their empanadas are a must-try, that I couldn’t possibly leave the city without tasting one. So, of course, I did.

What I didn’t realize was that there are two kinds of empanadas competing for people’s cravings here—the Vigan Empanada of Ilocos Sur and the Batac Empanada of Ilocos Norte. Both are about the size of a plate, half-moon shaped, deep-fried savory pastries usually sold at roadside stalls or food parks. The difference lies in the ingredients and appearance, I think. Please correct me if I’m wrong, people of Ilocos!

Turns out, what I got was a Batac Empanada, not the Vigan version. Batac empanada is recognizable by its bright orange shell. Curious, I asked the cook why it’s colored that way, but before he could answer, another buyer jumped in to explain that the dough, made with rice flour, is tinted with annatto seeds or atsuete.

He said that in Batac, many even enjoy the crunchy-salty shell on its own, without filling. Like crisps! They call it pinais and usually pair it with spiced sugarcane vinegar or sukang Iloco. That was new to me. I just love how locals are always the best guides when it comes to food.

I ended up with the Special Batac Empanada for P60, which was stuffed with grated green papaya, mongo sprouts, egg, and Ilocos longganisa. I was encouraged to try the Vigan Empanada, too, but the nearby stall was already closing for the night. So I still don’t know its difference.

Maybe that’s reason enough to return to Vigan. Then again, who really needs a reason to go back here?

[ More photos here ]